Hiking the Art Loeb Trail in One Night :: Pisgah National Forest

September 7, 2022September 7, 2022Leave a comment

I distinctly remember putting this trail on my ‘to-hike’ list years ago. But, it was a little too far away and I was a little too scared to hike it by myself (literally me at every new hike I do…), so it kept getting pushed to the end of the list. But, the great thing about having friends who both love to hike and were living close to Pisgah is that you can semi-spontaneously decide to hike Art Loeb in the middle of the week. All I needed was a little push.

The Art Loeb Trail is a 30.1 mile trail (plus a little more if you do some short side trails) in the beautiful Pisgah National Forest of North Carolina with its termini at Davidson River Campground and the Daniel Boone Boy Scout Camp (yes, through a literal summer camp to get to the trailhead). By my numbers, the elevation gain was roughly 7,100 feet.

But, wow, what a beautiful, challenging and rewarding trail. We initially planned on a SOBO hike of 3 days and 2 nights but pushed to get done in 2 days trying to avoid potentially bad weather. Hiking 16+ miles each day with lots of elevation change and a pack (with bear canister, which are required in Shining Rock Wilderness btw; I believe you can rent one from the Asheville REI.) was a doozy but one I’d do again in a heartbeat.

There are many places to camp along the way. You can disperse camp in National Forests, meaning you can virtually camp anywhere you’d like, preferably 200 feet from the trail or water. Many people suggest NOT camping in Shining Rock Wilderness because of bear activity (and also why you need a bear canister), so that may be something to take into account as you are planning your sites. But, there are plenty of already ‘developed’ sites along the way, so you can really decide to stop whenever you get to a place you like. There’s also 2 very sketchy, but cool looking shelters on the trail, but I would not advise actually sleeping in them for fear of collapse.

Also, water can be scarce at certain times of the year on this trail, so fill up when you can. In the summer, you may need to carry most of your water for the whole trip. I hiked this trail in March and we didn’t have a problem, but we also filled up every time we saw any water. You may not be so fortunate in the warmer months. I used this post to help plan out my trip.

Here was our itinerary for a 2-day, 1-night hike of Art Loeb:

Day 0: Met Bethany late at Davidson River Campground and we slept in the back of my Subaru. (I have an air mattress that fits the back of my car and it’s a game changer for arriving at trailhead late at night so you don’t have to hike i and set up in the dark.)

Day 1 (16.6 miles): Woke up and drove one car to the Daniel Boone Boy Scout Camp trailhead and started hiking around 8:00am. Camped at a nice little spot just south of Farlow Gap. Features: Shining Rock, Tennent Mountain, Black Balsam Knob

Day 2 (16.96 miles): Started hiking around 8:00am and finished the trail around 5:00pm at Davidson River Campground. Features: Pilot Mountain, Sassafras Knob, Chestnut Mountain

We chose to go SOBO so that we would end near Brevard, NC, so we could eat a bunch of town food after we finished the hike. (The Boy Scout Camp trailhead is much more secluded.) They say it’s a bit more challenging going NOBO, but no matter what, you are going to climb, descend, climb, descend, etc. Also some say to do NOBO because you ‘save the views for the end’, but there are views throughout and the ‘best’ ones are just about halfway through. You do you though and HYOH (hike your own hike)

I was stunned by the diversity of the trail: the sweeping views, very narrow rhododendron tunnels, forest-like cover and shining rocks. A+ would recommend to any backpacker that loves beauty and a challenge. (And maybe falling. I fell a lot 🙈)

Distance from Nashville: 5 hours

Trailhead: Davidson River Campground near Brevard, NC and Cold Mountain/Camp Daniel Boone near Canton, NC

Trail: Art Loeb Trail

Length of trail: 30.1 miles (we clocked just over 33 miles)

Link to trail map: Art Loeb Trail (I also thought my Gaia GPS map was great)

Camping: Dispersed, many options that are already ‘developed’ as sites (cleared out and flat), also 2 shelters that no one should actually sleep in (Deep Gap and Butter Gap). Most say to avoid camping in Shining Rock Wilderness because of bear activity. Bear canisters required in Shining Rock Wilderness.

Overview: Super beautiful and challenging hike with sweeping open Appalachian views, shining rocks, thick forest cover, narrow rhododendron and laurel ‘tunnels’. I would recommend this to anyone who likes backpacking, but maybe just not make it your very first every trip. You may hate yourself.

The Trails of Pogue Creek Canyon State Natural Area

August 28, 2022August 29, 2022Leave a comment

Right before you hit Pickett State Park on TN-154, there’s a small pull-off trailhead nestled between fields of fall goldenrod and asters is one of the access points to Pogue Creek Canyon SNA. You’ll also find an astronomy field where you can view to night skies of this International Dark Sky Association certified area.

You’ll start this hike descending into the canyon, briefly ascending, then making the final plunge into the canyon before climbing out again as you near the final overlook. You can also access the Mesa Top Overlook from a shorter, flatter hike from the Moccasin Trailhead (which also marks Moccasin Rock trail that connects to Pickett), although, you will miss out on some pretty stellar things about this state natural area.

This hike will give you rock formations characteristic of the TN North Cumberland Plateau. You’ll pass by several rock houses and a few arches on your way to the Mesa Top Overlook, which is a great place to enjoy lunch and a view of the ‘canyon’. Make sure to take the short side trail to Circle Bar Arch and don’t miss the ‘biggest tiny arch’, Killdeer Arch. There’s also an unmarked side trail to a dripping waterfall (heavier flow when there’s rain), but be prepared to take off your backpack and squeeze through some rocks (not claustrophobic rocks, just rocks jutting out that you kinda off have to snake around). Even though the water was barely flowing, it was a cool area to explore. My favorite part about the hike was how evenly spaced all of the interest points were. There was enough to see to keep the hike engaging the whole time.

One more note: There is an actual ladder about a mile in. I had to carry Luna down and up the ladder (over one shoulder holding with one arm, so I could still grip the rungs; it was quite the sight I’m sure! 🙃) She is very great with steps, even really steep ones, but she could not do this ladder. So, if you can’t safely carry your dog down and up an 8 rung ladder, you may want to leave the pup at home for this one.

If you find yourself in the North Cumberland Plateau area or want to do multiple hikes in this area, I’d suggest doing Pogue Creek Canyon first. It truly is a cool hike with unique features, but I don’t think that it quite impresses as much as Pickett or Big South Fork. So, build up to the rock beauties and do Pogue Creek first, so you are extra impressed by the other hikes in the area.

Distance from Nashville: 2 hr 25 min

Trailhead: Near the Astronomy Field on Pickett Park Hwy (TN-154)

Trail: All of ‘em (Overlook, Upper Canyon Mesa Top)

Length of trail: I did approx. 9 miles total

Link to trail map: Pogue Creek Canyon

Camping: None (However, you can camp at Pickett State Park right down the road.)

Overview: Moderate hike with classic northern Cumberland Plateau rock formations like arches and crazy rock patterns along with an overlook with a view

Backpacking Laurel-Snow Pocket Wilderness :: Cumberland Trail

August 28, 2022August 29, 2022Leave a comment

Located solidly off of any interstate, Laurel-Snow is a beautiful little pocket of the gorges of Walden Ridge in the eastern Cumberland Plateau. It gets it name from 2 waterfalls in the area and is also the first National Recreation Trail designated in Tennessee. Laurel-Snow also contains a section of the Cumberland Trail, although it doesn’t yet directly connect to any other part of the the CT.

The entire area has about 11 miles of trails situation in a ‘Y’ shape. About 1.5 miles in, the trail forks. The right fork takes you to Laurel Falls and Bryan Overlook and the left fork takes to you Snow Falls and Buzzard Point. You’ll find Henderson Creek campsite near the fork and a campsite near each of the waterfalls (water sources near all sites). Doing the entire trial system in an overnight is a bit of a push, but very doable.

The trails are marked relatively well, but it’s very easy to get turned around or wander off on a fake trail, especially as you wander deeper into the area. I would highly recommend having the free Gaia GPS app, which helped us stay on track.

During the first part of the trail, you’ll find remnants of Richland Mine as you meander along Richland Creek. Even with water levels low, this waterway is stunning with its enormous boulders and trickling cascades. We veered left towards Snow Falls and soon came upon the longest metal footbridge I’ve ever crossed at 150 ft. Three connected bridges zig-zagged over the boulder-filled Richland Creek gorge. The trail gets slightly overgrown in this area, basically meaning that the poison ivy is all up on your feet and legs. Take the dirt/jeep road to get to Buzzard Point; it’s definitely worth it the 180 degree views of the gorge and Chickamauga Lake in the distance.

We camped at Morgan Creek, a peaceful site near Snow Falls. You can access the base and the top of the small fall. Because the water level of Morgan Creek was low, we got to hang out in the creek bed and take it all in.

The next morning, we retraced our steps back to the trail fork and headed then headed towards Laurel Falls. You’ll climb out of a gorge, traverse some pretty amazing rock structures and climb through a little rock tunnel, which was especially fun with a loaded pack on your back! Laurel Falls was just a trickle, but the shelf-like rock that formed it was stunning regardless of the water level. We relaxed on the car-sized boulders before heading back to the trailhead.

The only bummer about these trails is that you have to do a lot of backtracking to see everything. You end up basically doing every trial twice. Oh, and poison ivy and ticks. Lots and lots of poison ivy and seed ticks. (I may have found a tick TWO days later attached near my armpit 🤢)

There were lots of people coming to swim in the creek, so that means there was trash, especially along the first 1.5 miles. Please remember to #recreateresponsibly and #leavenotrace. PICK UP TRASH Y’ALL.

Laurel-Snow is a complete winner, just make sure you have a plan, a map and plenty of water (all things you should have for any hike anyways!)

Distance from Nashville: 2 hr 45 min

Trailhead: Pocket Wilderness Road off of Back Valley Rd near Dayton, TN

Trail: Laurel-Snow Trail

Length of trail: 3.3 miles (one way) to end of Laurel Falls Spur Trail, 4.8 miles (one way) to end of Snow Falls Spur Trail. My route was 15.5 miles, split over 2 days

Link to trail map: Laurel-Snow Section of CT

Camping: Henderson Creek (near split of trails), Morgan Creek (near Snow Falls – were I camped), Laurel Creek Campsite (near Laurel Falls)

Overview: Challenging, yet rewarding hike to 2 beautiful falls with a couple overlooks, neat-o rock structures, and a loooooong 150ft foot bridge.

Virgin Falls Trail :: Virgin Falls State Natural Area

August 13, 2021August 18, 2021Leave a comment

At almost exactly 2 hours away from Nashville, the whole Virgin Falls out-and-back trail clocks in a just about 10 miles.

I honestly forgot how wonderful almost every mile of this hike is; something to see almost the entire time. Y’all know I love a good creek walk and, boy, Big Laurel Creek delivers. It’s such a peaceful walk where you pass by multiple waterfalls, beautiful, lush greenery that remind me of the PNW, and a sweeping add-on view of Scott’s Gulf at Martha’s Pretty Point.

Along the way, you’ll see a few small waterfalls including Big Laurel Falls, Big Branch Falls, and Sheep Cave Falls.

And of course, there is Virgin Falls, the namesake of the trail. The falls are formed by an underground stream that emerges just long enough for its 110 ft. drop, then disappears into another cave at the bottom of the sink it flows into. It’s some kind of geological phenomenon. There’s also a short trail to get to the top of the falls where you can see the cave where the stream comes from.

You should also check out Sheep Cave and the little waterfall that goes along with it. (Please note that all the caves are closed due to White Nose Syndrome. So, please don’t actually enter the caves.)

There are also plenty (four) of backcountry sites which make it a perfect trip for beginner backpackers. So, if you are looking to get in to backpacking and want a really great payoff, this is your trail. The sites range from being beside a waterfall to on top of a bluff, so there’s a lot of choose from. I’ve personally never camped here (all my hikes here have been day hikes), but I think the one atop Martha’s Pretty Point has the best views! Keep in mind that there is no water at this site, though. So, make sure to filter from Big Laurel Creek before you ascend up there.

The sneaky part about this trail is that the way in is a steady downhill, which you really don’t notice until you are on your way back and those miles are a steady uphill. Going in, I barely got my heart rate above a walk, which tricks you into forgetting that this trail goes steadily downhill a majority of the way in. But, you’ll get a nice workout on the way out. Commence much sweating on my part. I definitely felt my quads gain a few inches of muscle (and consequently my jeans fit a little tighter).

Be especially cautious of snakes in the spring and summer months. This area tends to have a lot of rattlesnakes. (It’s not like they are slithering all over everywhere or anything, but I always like to know what I’m walking into!)

On your way out, make the drive to Welch’s Point, just down the road. It’s a great spot to watch the sunset, if you’re so inclined!

Virgin Falls isn’t exactly a secret or anything, but it truly is a must-see on the Cumberland Plateau. Just be prepared for a long day hike or stay for a moderate overnight backpack.

Distance from Nashville: 2 hours

Trailhead: Virgin Falls Trail on Scott’s Gulf Road (small parking area)

Trail: Mostly an out-and-back trail with a small loop near the end accessing Virgin Falls and Sheep Cave

Link to trail map: Virgin Falls Trail Map

Length of Trail: ~10 miles including the trail to Martha’s Pretty Point, allow 5-6 hours

Camping: 4 different backcountry sites at varying points along the trail: Cable Crossing, Martha’s Pretty Point, Caney Fork and Virgin Falls. Martha’s Pretty Point and Virgin Falls are the most popular.

Overview: Multiple waterfalls, gorgeous overlook and a cumulative climb of 1100′.

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Charlie’s Bunion via Kephart Prong Hike :: Great Smoky Mountains National Park

August 6, 2021August 29, 20222 Comments

Hiking in the Smokies has always been special to me, whether it was the short hikes I did as a child visiting for almost every Spring Break or the backpacking trips that helped me gain confidence in the outdoors.

But, oftentimes, I’m hiking alone and, for whatever reason, this brings me so much more anxiety when I’m in the Smokies. I think there’s a lot of reasons I’m more anxious here (bears, no cell service, etc.) but I don’t let it stop me from experiencing a place that means so much to me.

This hike to Charlie’s Bunion was no different. I was straight up scared, but I wouldn’t admit it to myself. It was a combination of little sleep the night before, an early wake up call and the fact that I had to make the drive back to Nashville that same day.

Panoramic view of the Smoky mountains in the fall — The view from Charlie’s Bunion

I wanted to see this highlight of the park, but, of course, I didn’t want to do the typical route. It just wasn’t a “long” enough hike and I wanted to challenge. So, I took an alternate route via Kephart Prong, Grassy Branch, Dry Sluice Gap, the AT, then back down the Sweat Heifer Trail connecting back to Kephart Prong. It was a bit ambitious for a day hike (about 15 miles), but that’s what I do! It would also make a fantastic overnight backpack. There’s 2 shelters along the way – Kephart (2 miles from trailhead) and Icewater Spring (7 miles from trailhead) – that are great places to camp. Just make sure you get a permit!

I drove to the Kephart Prong trailhead in the dark, the sun rising just as I stepped out of my car on the trailhead and the rushing creek greeted me, providing some solace. The first part of the trail follows the Kephart Prong and it’s the perfect picture of a Smoky Mountain stream complete with log footbridges crossing the creek as the trail gently zig-zagged over it. It was a beautiful walk in the early morning as I made sure to keep my eyes up around every corner, to be sure that I didn’t startle any wildlife. My initial anxiety calmed a bit and I decided to have a snack just before the Kephart shelter.

Let’s just say that snack was not the best idea. A few minutes later, my anxious belly was churning as I began a steady climb on the Grassy Branch Trail. Soon, I began to feel nauseous and light headed. I stopped, put my hands on my knees and tried to take deep breaths. But, that only partially helped and that snack came right back up. I plopped down right in the middle of the trail and had to evaluate if I was going to continue on. After a few cautious sips of water and sitting with my head between my legs for a few minutes, I decided to truck along. I kept evaluating each step I took to make sure that I felt ok.

I don’t remember a small portion of the Grassy Branch trail because all I was focused on was putting one foot in front of the other. I climbed steadily and passed rhododendron groves and colorful trees and parts of the trail that look like deep ruts through the trees. I always find it interesting that many of the trails in the Smokies are not blazed at all. But, they are so well worn that you don’t worry if you aren’t on the trail.

Over the course of Grassy Branch and Dry Sluice Gap, you gain about 3,000 feet of elevation. I’m sure my legs notices it but I was so focused on not feeling sick, that the elevation gains flew right by.

I didn’t see a single soul until I turned onto the AT. It’s always equally thrilling and scary to not see someone when you feel so remote. Most of the portion on this section of the AT is flat. So, it’s a nice break from the climb you just conquered.

Now, the actual Charlie’s Bunion is not the classic “tourist” Charlie’s Bunion. I’ll leave it to you to find the “real” one. There’s a little narrow path that branches off the AT and takes you to the geographic Bunion. (Plus, I was the only one there. I was most definitely NOT the only on at the other one!) While it is a cliche place in the Smokies, it is definitely a beautiful view. I went almost at the peak of fall color, so I was rewarded with a rainbow of fall colors.

After departing from the Bunion, I headed southbound on the AT headed for the Sweat Heifer turn-off. Not long after, a nice gentleman asked if I could take a picture of him next to a wayfinding sign to send his wife. He was hiking a long section of the AT and we got to hike together for a few miles. While I’ve never seriously considered thru-hiking, it felt like I got a little ‘trail magic’ in getting to have a hiking partner. It also greatly calmed my nerves even more. I was ready to attack the back half of the hike. (Plus, I managed to get a few calories in my body, so I was feeling a bit stronger.)

The Sweat Heifer Trail was a diamond in the rough. I really enjoyed this hike back down the mountains. There were great views peeking through the tree, little stream cascades and everything just felt like a Smoky Mountain Trail. I really haven’t heard much about the trail, but I do highly recommend it if you’re ever in this part of the park.

As I met up with the Kephart Prong Trail again, I was overwhelmed with gratitude for these mountains, this hike, and my body for carrying me 15+ miles in under 7 hours while feeling ill, not to mention the total 3,600+ feet of elevation gain. While this was an ambitious route, even feeling at my best, I do feel like it’s doable as a day hike. Just be prepared to be real sore the next day!

I can’t recommend this alternate route to Charlie’s Bunion enough. You get to explore lesser known Smoky Mountain trails and feel very proud of yourself for hiking up a mountain to get there.

Distance from Nashville: 4.25 hours

Trailhead: Kephart Prong Trailhead on US-441 (Newfound Gap Rd)

Trails: Balloon loop formed by Kephart Prong, Grassy Branch, Dry Sluice Branch, Appalachian Trail and Sweat Heifer Trails

Link to trail map: GSMNP Map (Note that this is the map of the whole park. I suggest using GAIA GPS on this, and any, hike!)

Length of hike: about 15 miles

Type of hike: Balloon loop

Camping: Kephart Shelter (2 miles from Kephart trailhead) and Icewater Spring Shelter (7.5 miles from Kephart Trailhead). Either is a great place to stay if you are doing an overnight of this route.

Overview: Climb to the stunning views from Charlie’s Bunion on a lesser known route following Smoky Mountain streams, log footbridges and lush, magical flora.

Hiking Tour of Fall Creek Falls State Park

March 17, 2021March 17, 20212 Comments

I avoided Fall Creek Falls State Park for years. I went once maybe 5 years ago on my way home from another hike. I got confused by the map and all the semi-interconnected short trails and ended up just doing the Woodland Trail and seeing just Fall Creek Falls from the overlook near the parking lot.

The popularity, especially in these times, has deterred me from returning. I always opted for something “more rugged” or “less popular”. Against all of the type 4 in me, I returned to the largest state park in Tennessee yesterday. And let me just say, what took me so long to get back??

Many people drive to the different sections and do some hiking at each landmark. But, I say why drive when you can hike to them all? I decided to see how long it would take to hike to all of the iconic spots: Cane Creek Falls and Cascades, Fall Creek Falls, Piney Creek Falls, both suspension bridges and Milliken’s Overlook. And yes, it can be done! It will end up being about an 11 mile hike with both easy and difficult sections, but I HIGHLY recommend this route.

I started at the nature center and attempted the Cable Trail first. Even though Luna is quite the adventure dog, there was a spot we couldn’t get safely down together. (She did amazing maneuvering the steep slopes until we got to the problem spot halfway down though!) So, we’ll return another time with a hiking pal so I can actually get all the way down. Then, we hiked all around the nature center which has accesses to Cane Creek Falls and Cascades. Be sure to make it all the way down the steps behind the nature center for the full cascades experience.

Then, we crossed the suspension bridge that connects this area to Fall Creek Falls via the Woodland Trail and ventured down to the bottom of the falls. We got absolutely soaked in the powerful mist from the falls and it was therapeutic. After returning to the top, we headed towards the parking area at the falls and found the Overnight Trail (also called the Lower Loop Trail) which takes you to Milliken’s Overlook (via a side trail) and Piney Creek Falls. The Lower Loop Trail is completely flat and just a bit hard to see the trail. It is marked with white trail markers, but all the fallen leaves made the trail almost indistinguishable from the other land. I didn’t have trouble following it, but I also use the Gaia GPS app, which I check frequently to make sure I am on the trail.

After viewing Cane Creek Gulf, return to the Lower Loop Trail and follow it to Piney Creek Falls. After seeing the falls from the overlook, continue on just a bit farther along the white trail until you reach the other large suspension bridge. I turned around here and returned to the Nature Center via the Overnight (Lower Loop). I thought there may be a way to the bottom of Piney Creek Falls, but I’m not sure that’s the case and I had to start making my way back.

The whole adventure ended up being just a bit over 11 miles and you get to see all the highlights. I was surprised at how much I enjoyed this hike.

I kept seeing the same people at all these spots. They had driven to each and I had hiked the whole way. 😂

So, don’t think that just because this is the most visited and one of the largest recreation areas in the state that it doesn’t pack a punch. I’m sure it’s crowded on weekends, but going during the week in the winter (even though it was pretty warm fro February) was perfect.

The two long trails (Lower Loop and Upper Loop) have backcountry campsites. This would be a great way to experience camping in this state park without staying at the HUGE campground. There’s just so much more to this state park than I previously thought. They have added new land and trails in the past few years, so there’s just so much to do at Fall Creek Falls State Park besides see Fall Creek Falls from the overlook (which is honestly what I thought for the longest time! 🙈)

Distance from Nashville: 2 hours

Trailhead: Nature Center near Cane Creek Falls off of Village Camp Rd.

Trails: Cable, Overlook, Woodland and Lower Loop Trails (see my route below)

Link to trail map: Falls Creek Falls State Park

Length of hike: 11.2 miles

Type of hike: Mixed/Out-and-back

Camping: 4 backcountry sites scattered throughout lower and upper loop trails plus tons of front country campground sites.

Overview: See multiple waterfalls (from above and below), a few overlooks and a couple suspension bridges as you traverse the most popular spots of Fall Creek Falls by foot.

Hidden Passage Loop :: Pickett CCC Memorial State Park

March 9, 2021March 15, 2021Leave a comment

Somehow I’ve never been to Pickett State Park and, wow, have I been missing out.

Like a lil sis to Big South Fork, Pickett CCC Memorial State Park is part of the Upper Cumberland Plateau region. She has within her sections of the Sheltowee Trace NRT and (one of) the John Muir Trail. She is a stunner, let me tell you! Sometimes I’m hesitant to drive 2.5 hours to a trail I’ve never been to that I really don’t see a ton about. But, I am over the moon that I didn’t bail on this loop.

This area was initially developed by the CCC, hence the ‘CCC Memorial’ part of the state park name. Because of this, there is a CCC Museum on the premises.

Thompson Overlook, about halfway through the trail

Actually, Hidden Passage has a “hidden” surprise around almost every bend of the trail. It’s such a wildly diverse trail and it will keep you enthralled the entire time. There’s so many rock houses, around 8 total and each one is stunning and somehow looks different from each other. There’s creeks, waterfalls, ridgetop views, parts of the trail that are open and feel above the treeline and also kind of look like the southwest.

The actual Hidden Passage is less than a mile, a beautiful, small stone arch. Right before this geological feature, you’ll find Crystal Falls, , which is a beautiful double tiered fall.

After passing these two highlights, you’ll meander along the “top” of a gorge that have both tree-lined and open parts that make you feel like you’re somewhere else far beyond Tennessee. And, don’t forget about the multiple rock houses. You’ll see these dispersed throughout the trail. The first one is right near the beginning of the trail, which also happens to be the largest. Some of them have mini waterfalls coming over them and some are covered with Cumberland Sandwort. (Delicate plant found ONLY in shaded rock houses on the Cumberland Plateau in NE Tennessee and SE Kentucky! Please stay on the trails and boardwalks to protect these fragile guys!) Another feature that is dispersed throughout the trail are rhododendrons, which I always think of as a ‘Smoky Mountain’ thing but they are all over the Cumberland Plateau too.

There is an option to add on the Double Falls trail, which will increase the total mileage by about 1.5 miles. I attempted this trail, but it had just rained and the trail was partially covered by a rushing creek and I didn’t particularly want to have soaking wet feet for the rest of the hike. (Also, I didn’t bring extra socks. Rookie mistake!) I made it a little more than halfway, then turned around. There’s also a nice campsite down this trail as well with water readily available from this creek.

If you’re not up for the full loop, you can do a 1.5 mile out and back to Crystal Falls and see the “Hidden Passage” as well as a huge rock house. Then, you can also do a couple shorter trails in Pickett like the Natural Bridge and Rock House trails.

Pickett CCC Memorial State Park should be on everyone’s list, whether a brand new or seasoned hiker. There’s a variety of trails depending on what you’re up for and each showcases a unique part of this area.

Get on up to the part of the state. I know I spend a lot of time in the South Cumberland region but I’m excited to explore more of the northern part. There’s tons of amazing things in the area.

Quick note: there has been bear activity reported in this area. Please be as safe as possible and know how to handle wildlife encounters. I like to clap often, bang my trekking poles and shout “HEY BEAR” frequently to make my presence known. You can also get a bear bell for, like, $3 at REI!

Trail: Hidden Passage Trail

Length: ~ 8 miles (~ 10 miles if you do the Double Falls Trail)

Distance from Nashville: 2 hours 30 minutes

Trailhead: Hidden Passage Trailhead on Pickett Park Highway (State Rte 154)

Link to trail map: Pickett CCC Memorial State Park Map

Brief Overview: Meander along diverse landscapes and flora in this underrated state park in the North Cumberland Plateau. You’ll see waterfalls, creeks, sweeping views and jaw-dropping rock houses.

Collins Gulf Loop :: Savage Gulf State Natural Area

March 3, 2021March 3, 20212 Comments

Savage Gulf is one of the most diverse places to hike in middle-ish Tennessee and obviously one of my favorites.

I’d been wanting to go back and do the Collins Gulf Loop for a while now. It’s an under appreciated trail in my opinion and doesn’t get nearly as much love as the other trails in Savage Gulf. I am here to attest that this loop is one of the prettiest and most unique in the area.

Collins Gulf is one of the lesser traveled trails (Stone Door and Savage Day Loop being the most popular), but has some of the most diverse trails. You make the “Collins Gulf Loop” by joining the Collins Gulf, Collins Rim, and the Stagecoach Road Historic trail. There are a few blue blazed trails that stem off of the main ones (blazed white) which can add on a few extra tenths of a mile. One of the best things about Savage Gulf is how well-marked and well-kept all the trails are. It makes hiking so much more enjoyable when you aren’t stressing that you missed a trail turnoff or blaze.

I made a goal to backpack once a season this year. I randomly had 2 days off in the middle of the week and was searching for a backpacking partner. I asked a few friends and, not surprisingly, they couldn’t make it work for their schedule. So, I took a chance and tried to reach out in the most not awkward way to an “Instagram friend”. Before I knew it, Abby and I were speeding along I-24 towards my favorite place in Middle TN.

I returned to a semi-familiar trail for my first overnight trip in a while. But, since I hadn’t been here in 4-5 years, it felt like a whole new trail. There’s a few different options for camping, but we stayed at the Sawmill Campground, off of the Collins Gulf portion.

We clocked in just over 15 miles for the entire trip. This included a side trails to both Horsepound Falls and Schwoon Spring, which is the water source for the Sawmill Campground even though it was over a half mile away. It is one of the craziest and most amazing places I have ever filtered water from. You have to hop from boulder to boulder across little waterfalls from this spring that sprouts from a cave. It was absolutely stunning and worth the side trail even if you don’t need water. I will say, we were a little nervous the spring was going to be dry. There is no inkling that there will be water until you come upon the boulders. One of the things I get most stressed about in backpacking trips is water sources, so we were both a little nervous we’d have to backtrack to Collins Creek to get water. But, I believe this spring is wet most of the year.

So, to sum up, this loop gives you multiple falls, HUGE boulders, the stunning Collins Creek, a few gulf views, amazing history in the Stagecoach Road (be sure to read the info signs!), and multiple varied suspension bridges. While it’s a bit of a challenge to complete in one day (yes, I’ve done it), it is a great way to spend an overnight. It’s not kill-yourself challenging, but keeps you on your toes, especially with a pack on. If you decide to do it in a day, be sure to give yourself a good 7-8 hours, especially if you plan on doing the side trails for Horsepound Falls and Schwoon Spring, which in my opinion are not optional because they are both stunning.

Put this one on your list, kids!

Distance from Nashville: 1 hr 45 min

Trailhead: Off of 55th Ave near Gruetli-Laager, TN

Trail: Loop formed by Collins Gulf to Stagecoach Road Historic to Collins Gulf (see route below)

Link to trial map: Savage Gulf State Natural Area (center of map)

Length of trail: ~15 miles, including side trails to Horsepound Falls and Schwoon Spring

Campsites: Collins West Campground, Collins East Campground (both near trailhead) and Sawmill Campground (about 5 miles from trailhead), both are backcountry sites

Overview: Suspension bridges, waterfalls, stunning spring and views of the gulf. A fabulous, challenging hike great for a semi-challenging overnight hike

Sewanee Perimeter Trail :: Sewanee, TN

November 1, 2020November 1, 2020Leave a comment

When I learned of a quasi-thru-hiking trail less than an hour and a half from Nashville, it was only a matter of time before I tackled 20+ miles in one day.

This trail encircles the property of the University of the South and the town of Sewanee which makes sense if you, well, just read the name of the trail. It also follows the perimeter of the Cumberland Plateau (a personal favorite ecological feature of Tennessee). So, you’ll find all the perks of this area: a few waterfalls, heavily wooded areas and landscape views. But, as a bonus, you’ll really feel like a mini thru-hiker when you pass by the “downtown” and follow the road for a portion of the trail. (Oh, and also you literally walk through people’s backyards at one point…) It truly is an experience.

This trail is managed by the university and they recently put in really helpful way finding points along the entire trail, which makes it really easy to make sure you are taking the right trail. There are many opportunities to veer off the perimeter trail to see things like caves and additional falls. Because we opted to do the entire trail in one day, we didn’t take advantage of these side trails this time.

There is a spot to camp, but according to the Sewanee website, it is for students, faculty, staff, and alumni only. But, there is a note about other groups being taken on a case-by-case basis. See more information here. I’ll probably look into camping for another time so I can more fully enjoy every part of the trial system.

Overall, this trail is really not difficult; it’s almost all flat terrain. So, truly the hardest part is just the pure length of the trail. We did it in about 8 hours (moving time). Obviously, it’s a little easier to fit the hike in in the summer when daylight hours are longer. But, it’s also hotter and buggier. It’s is cooler up on the Plateau, so it wasn’t too terrible even in June when we did the hike.

This hike marks the longest I have ever hiked in one day at 21.4 miles. So, if you are looking to push yourself mileage-wise, this is the perfect trail, especially because you won’t absolutely kill yourself with elevation changes or boulder hopping. (Both of which I LOVE but pairing that with 20 miles in one day is A LOT!)

Distance from Nashville: 1 hour 30 minutes

Trailhead: Just past the University gates on Hwy 41A/Sewanee Hwy

Link to trail map: Sewanee Hiking Trails

Length of hike: ~21 miles

Brief overview: A long, moderate hike featuring the hallmarks of the Cumberland Plateau – Tennessee trees, waterfalls, and views – circling Sewanee with a taste of thru-hiking vibes.

Cumberland River Bicentennial Trail :: Ashland City, TN

October 9, 2020October 9, 2020Leave a comment

It’s always nice to find a new multi-use trail close to home. The Cumberland River Bicentennial Trail is 6.5 mile (one way) trail just outside Ashland City, TN, which is northwest of the city. This trail is part of the ‘rails to trails’ project which turns former rail lines into trails.

There are two trailheads – Marks Creek and Eagle Pass – and the trails ends at Cheatham Lock and Dam Campground. The path from Marks Creek to Eagle Pass is paved making it wheelchair accessible and from Eagle Pass to the campground is packed gravel (not suitable for road bikes). About a mile from Marks Creek Trailhead, there is a a spot called Turkey Junction Native Gardens that has picnics tables, restrooms (currently closed, I believe) and a little garden.

The trail follows the Cumberland River and features an impressive trestle bridge, almost constant views of the river, a few trail side trickling waterfalls, wildlife refuges and even a little hobbit hole! The entire trail is completely flat, so it’s great training to up your mileage. It’s also a relatively wide path, which is welcome in the times of social distancing.

There’s plenty to see along this path, which completely surprised me. (Don’t miss the extra special hobbit hole trail magic!) It’s a great place to visit close to Nashville that truly can be used by almost anyone. So grab your walking shoes, your bike, your dog, and your lunch and enjoy a day outside not too far from home.

Distance from Nashville: 35 minutes

Trailhead: Marks Creek or Eagle Pass

Trail: Cumberland River Bicentennial Trail

Trail map: Cumberland River Bicentennial Trail

Length of hike: 6.5 miles one way from Marks Pass to the campground

Brief overview: A flat, multi-use trail following the Cumberland River with an impressive trestle bridge, wildlife refuges, and multiple spots with picnic tables.

She Hikes Tennessee

Gettin' folks outdoors one hike at a time

Category: 8+ miles